A recipe borrowed from our neighbours on the Konkan coast, chirotis (also known as phenori and pathir peni among other names) are a popular sweet in Coorg, and you’re likely to be served these in any home you go to. A kind of fried puff pastry, these delicately layered whorls draw you relentlessly into eating more than is good for you. They really are that good, and it is difficult to stop at one.
Less common these days, though, is the savoury chiroti, made in the same way, but seasoned with salt and spices. The classic Saraswat cookbook, Rasachandrika, has a recipe for phenori that lists turmeric, cumin and chilli powder among the ingredients.
Perhaps it was a passing fashion, or something that has fallen victim to increasingly health conscious times, but my mother recalls that at the time of her younger sister’s marriage some 46 years ago, baskets of savoury chirotis were ordered, perhaps from Mangalore, or maybe made at a local store. These were large, about 8″ across, and were served as part of the wedding meal, accompanied by a chicken curry. That encounter impressed her enough that she continued to make this for us over many years.