For special occasions, neyi kuul, or ghee rice, is a favoured dish at the Kodava table.
What’s not to love about soft white rice, cooked in generous quantities of ghee with onions and spices, and garnished with cashew nuts and raisins? And yet grandmother seems to have had her own take on “ghee rice” for her table.
There was no garlic, or ginger or green chilli in her version. Her ghee rice was scented with whole spices, subtly sweetened with caramelized onions, and studded with raisins and cashew nuts. It also wasn’t white, but tinged with a heavenly pale gold, and made just a little earthy by the addition of a hint of turmeric.
I always wonder about her culinary influences. Just as neyi kuul echoes the Mapilla rice dish of neyichoru, this touch of sugar in the rice was perhaps influenced by a Parsi neighbour in Mercara – a cue taken from the rice cooked with sugar caramelized onions, and traditionally made to accompany a dhansak. We’ll never know for certain, but I do know it made a dish beloved by generations of her family. We knew this as pann kuul or “fruit rice”.