I’ve been very lucky with mangoes this year!

There have been (not in any order of preference) Alphonsos, Banganpallis, Mallikas and more. And a windfall in the form of a generous gift from a friend – a  parcel containing several kilos of a little mango known as “Doodh Peda”, whose antecedents I am unsure of but whose buttery deliciousness I can vouch for ! Also in the parcel was a quantity of the Imam Pasand (written about here by Vikram Doctor). What a lovely mango! Pale yellow flesh, incredibly juicy, sweet, and yes, definitely citrusy. I don’t recall ever before eating a mango quite so, for want of a better word, “refreshing”. With each fruit weighing close to a kilo and with a small seed, that’s a lot of refreshment!

And then there’s the wild mango or Kaad Maangé in Coorg. These small mangoes (typically 3-4″ long) are sour-sweet, with a unique peppery, resinous flavour concentrated in the skin. The large, fibrous seeds provide quite an engaging dining experience! The whole mangoes are sometimes preserved in brine for use throughout the year.

If these wild mangoes are out of your reach, try this curry with any mango you like. If the mango is very sweet , add a little tamarind extract to provide the sour element.

Kaad Maangé Curry

• 1/2 kg wild mangoes

Prepare the mangoes by washing them free of any resin and slicing off a small section where the stem is attached. Make two cuts on either side of the kernel to make three pieces of each mango. If the mango has an unusually large seed that doesn’t allow for slicing, peel the mango and reserve the skins. Add some water to the collected skins and squeeze out as much juice as you can. Strain and use the liquid in the curry.

• 2 medium onions, finely sliced
• 3-4 green chillies, slit
• 3-4 cloves garlic,lightly crushed
• 1/2 tsp turmeric
• 1/2 tsp red chilli powder, or to taste
• 1 tsp mustard seeds
• One sprig curry leaves
• Salt to taste
• 3-4 tbsp jaggery, or to taste (add more or less, depending on how sour the mangoes are)
• 3-4 tbsp oil

Grind together

• 1 tbsp dark roasted coriander seed
• 1 tsp dark roasted cumin
• 1 tsp mustard, roasted until it sputters
• A few peppercorns, lightly roasted

Heat the oil in a deep pan, kadhai or wok and sputter the mustard. Put in the garlic and when it begins to brown, add the curry leaves and green chillies. Saute’ briefly, then add the onions and fry till they soften and just start to brown.

Add the mangoes, turmeric, chilli powder and the ground roasted spices and stir to mix. Add 2 cups of hot water (or enough to cover the mangoes) and bring to a boil. Simmer for 5 minutes, then add salt and cook on medium heat for 10-15 minutes, or until the sauce has thickened and the mangoes are tender.
Add the jaggery and simmer for a few more minutes. Check the sweet/sour balance.

Best eaten with steamed rice.