Just last month I was dreaming of being in India during the mango season again. Well, what do you know – I made it! The month of June has been filled with wonderful mangoes – Malgova, Benisha, Badam, Mallika, and, thanks to the recent European Union ban on import of Indian mangoes, the markets have been filled with lovely Alphonso’s too.
With something less than their usual lofty price tag, there was a lot more to enjoy. But the real bonanza came in the form of an amazing haul of wild mangoes that came my way from the homes and estates of friends.
From what I can tell, kaad maangé trees seem to fruit abundantly in alternate years, and it appears that this was a fruitful year.
With a choice of mangoes from five different trees, each with a unique flavour, I’ve had my fill of kaad maangé curry for the season.
There was, however, a recipe that I had wanted to try and recreate – one that my grandmother used to make. It was usually prepared with brined wild mangoes (uppukuttuh maangé) in a spiced buttermilk base. My mother’s description of this dish of sweet-salty mango eaten with mounds of steaming white rice is mouthwatering!
She doesn’t have an exact recipe, but says this one shared by Shambavi Somaya is a close match.
Kaad Maangé Pajji
Wild mangoes in a lightly spiced yogurt sauce
- 6 small ripe kaad maangé , fresh or preserved in brine
- 5-6 parangi malu/bird’s eye chilli
- 1/2 cup freshly grated coconut
- 1/4 tsp cumin, lightly roasted
- 1/4 – 1/2 tsp sugar
- 1 cup yogurt, lightly whisked or 2 cups buttermilk
- Salt to taste
Tempering
- 1/2 tsp mustard seed
- 5 small cloves of garlic, crushed
- A few curry leaves
- 1 –2 tbsp oil
Peel the mangoes (hold them over a bowl to catch any runaway juice!) and sprinkle them with the sugar. Set aside for 10-15 minutes.
Grind the coconut, chillies and cumin to a fine paste, add it to the mangoes and mix well.
In a small pan, heat the oil and add the mustard. When it sputters, add the crushed garlic and curry leaves. When the garlic is lightly browned, add this to the mangoes.
Stir in the yogurt and add salt to taste.
Add a little finely chopped fresh coriander and serve.
Shambavi suggests serving this kaad maangé pajji with a mutton biryani or pulao.
For a lighter version, replace the yogurt with buttermilk or yogurt thinned out with water.
I’ve used a combination of fresh and preserved wild mangoes here. Do try it before the season ends!