It seems like summer arrived long before the official date of 21st June this year. Temperatures have routinely been reported as “record-setting”, “record-breaking”, or “record-tying”. This time, three years ago, we were setting quite different records for June!
In uncharacteristic fashion for Vancouver, there have been too few showers to give us any respite from the heat. In equally uncharacteristic fashion, I have been a bit reluctant to spend much time in the kitchen, partly because it’s so warm, and, mainly because it’s so gorgeous outside. Menus have been centered around cool salads, lots of summer fruit, and an old Indian favourite that’s guaranteed to appeal to the most jaded of appetites – curd rice. Or, as it is most aptly named in Kodava Thakk, mor kuul.
There are many minor variations on this simple dish which is essentially soft cooked rice mixed with yogurt and a few simple seasonings. Wrapped in banana leaves with a dollop of pickle, pressed into stainless steel tiffin boxes, or as my mother sometimes did, packed into a large bread bin lined with banana leaves or foil, it’s a favourite with traveller’s in India. And with good reason. The combination of soft, starchy rice and yogurt is easily digested, and comforts a stressed system while delivering a healthy dose of gut friendly bacteria.
Mor kuul is often served at the end of an elaborate meal, encouraging all the different components to settle down and play nicely together! It can also be the main feature, accompanied by a perky pepper fry, or my personal favourite, kaima undé barthad.
The summer is young, and the forecast is mor kuul weather. 🙂
Here are two of my favourite versions.
In the first, more traditional version you have finely chopped onions to cool your system, ginger to help a sluggish digestive system along, and green chilli and herbs to wake up the flavours. A “less is more” kuul, if you will.
The second is one I like to make using big bunches of the fresh herbs that are plentiful in the markets now. This herb packed version is a perfect match for a peppery fried meat. You, know, for those days when a little more is better.
Simple mor kuul
Rice dressed with yogurt
- 2 cups of soft cooked rice ( use a small grained rice like jeerigé sanna if possible)*
- 1/4 cup finely minced shallots
- 1 tbsp finely grated ginger
- 2-3 green chillis, finely sliced
- 1 –1 1/2 cups of yogurt, lightly whisked
- Salt to taste
- Finely chopped fresh coriander (optional)
Combine all the ingredients and chill lightly before serving with the pickle of your choice.
*Coarse thari can be used to make a smoother textured mor kuul.
A more herby mor kuul
- 2 cups of soft cooked rice
- 1/4 cup finely minced shallots
- 1 tbsp finely grated ginger
- 2-3 green chillis, finely sliced
- 1 cup loosely packed mint leaves
- 1 cup packed fresh coriander (leaves only)**
- 1/2 cup fresh curry leaves
- 1 tsp coarsely ground pepper
- 2 tbsp oil
- 1 – 1 1/2 cups yogurt, lightly whisked
- Salt to taste
Wash the mint, coriander and curry leaves and pat dry. Heat the oil in a wide pan, then fry the curry leaves on med- low heat, followed after 30 seconds by the mint leaves.
Stir on low heat until they are crisp.Drain and set aside. Add the coriander leaves to the same pan and cook until they wilt and darken. Remove and set aside.
In a bowl, combine the rice, shallots, ginger, chillis, salt and pepper.
Crush the fried mint and curry leaves, and chop the wilted coriander finely. Add them to the rice and mix in. Add the yogurt and fold in gently.
Chill lightly before serving.
**Use less if the coriander is strongly flavoured.
It doesn’t get any simpler than that. Or more cool. 🙂