The time has come for some pandi curry on this blog. My apologies to those who’ve been coming here, looking for the classic Kodava pork preparation, only to go away with an empty plate. I must admit I was holding out, because I really didn’t want you to think that that’s all there is to Coorg food! If I had a dollar for every time someone has said to me “Coorg? Mmm… pandi curry!” or  Homer Simpsonesque words to that effect, I’d be well placed to buy a few winters worth of…er…pork.

To make amends for the delay, here are two recipes!

Probably the definitive dish when it comes to Kodava cuisine, pandi curry has earned its chops as one of the tastiest ways to prepare pork, or wild boar – as it was in another era. Everyone has their favourites, and I personally find some versions needlessly over spiced. So, first up, the recipe we most often use at home. The spicing is rich and dark enough to raise a gentle sweat, but, you’ll live to fight another day. It’s a more mellow version, and with more sauce, which can of course be dried out once the meat is cooked. As always, with pandi curry, the flavour improves with keeping, so make this at least a day or two before you plan to eat it. If you don’t eat pork, try this recipe with duck, preferably with a good amount of fat.

Pandi Curry

Pork in a dark, spicy sauce

• 1 1/2 kg pork, with fat and skin (some bone in if possible) cut into 1″- 2″ pieces. For a succesful pandi curry, you must ideally include a  good portion of fat. Try a mix of pork belly and shoulder cuts
• 1/2 –1 tbsp chilli powder, or to taste (reduce chilli powder and increase pepper in the roasted spice mix for a more warming version)
• 1 tbsp turmeric (less if the turmeric is strong)
• 2 tbsp freshly grated ginger, ground to a paste
• 10 -12 cloves of garlic, ground to a paste
• A pinch of salt

Separately roast the following:

• 2 tbsp coriander seed
• 1 tbsp mustard seed
• 1 tbsp cumin
• 1 tsp peppercorns

On medium-low heat, roast each of the spices in a heavy pan, taking care not to scorch them. The coriander and cumin should be an even, dark brown. This is key to developing the deep colour and flavour of pandi curry. Roast the mustard until it sputters, and very lightly roast the peppercorns. Cool, then finely powder all the spices together.

Marinate the pork in the ingredients in the first group for at least half an hour. You can add the roasted spice powder to the marinade, or braise the meat in it briefly, before the hot water goes in.

• 2 – 3 medium onions, finely sliced, or chopped
• 2 – 3 green chillis slit
• 2 tbsp oil, or use a nice bit of fat, separated from the pork
• 1 tsp kachampuli*. (Always use less than you think you’ll need, and add more if required)
• Salt to taste

In a deep pan, kadhai, or wok, heat the oil (or fat) and fry the green chillis and onions until soft and translucent. Add the marinated pork, and stir well to mix. Add some salt and fry for 8 – 10 minutes, till the masala no longer smells raw, and the pork is dry. If you haven’t added the roasted spice powder, add it now, and stir to mix.

Add 2 – 3 cups of hot water, or enough to half cover the meat. Use your judgement, since some meat can release a fair amount of liquid when cooked. Bring to a low boil, stir thoroughly to mix, then cover and cook on low heat, stirring occasionally, until tender. Check for salt before the meat is completely cooked.

Add the kachampuli and simmer for a couple of minutes.

Best eaten with kadambuttus and a clear conscience.

The second version is similar, but with more varied spices, and a slightly different sequence of cooking. It makes a kind of dry braised dish. This is definitely one for those who like it spicy!

Pandi Curry 2.0

• 1 1/2 kg pork, with fat and skin (some bone in if possible) cut into 1″- 2″ pieces
• 1/2 –1 tbsp chilli powder, or to taste (reduce chilli powder and increase pepper for a more warming version)
• 1 tbsp turmeric (less if the turmeric is strong)

Grind together:

• 2 tbsp freshly grated ginger
• 10 – 12 cloves of garlic
• 3 – 4 green chillis, or to taste
• 1 cup  “sambar onions”, or finely sliced shallots

Rub the turmeric and red chilli powder into the pork, then mix in the ground ginger garlic mixture, and a pinch of salt. Set aside for 1/2 hour.

Separately roast the following:

• 2 tbsp coriander seed
• 1 tbsp mustard seed
• 1 tbsp cumin
• 1 tsp peppercorns
• 1/4 tsp fenugreek seed
• 2 – 3 cloves
• 1″ stick cassia

Prepare as in the previous recipe, with the coriander and cumin roasted dark, and the remaining spices more lightly.

Grind together to a fine powder.

Place the marinated pork in a deep pan, kadhai, or wok, add one cup of hot water, cover and cook until tender. Add small amounts of water if it looks like it’s drying out before its cooked. Add salt to taste before the meat is fully cooked.

Add 1 tsp kachampuli, and cook on low heat for a few minutes, then add 2 generous tbsp of the roasted spice masala and cook till dry.

Serve as usual, with kadambuttus, wedges of fresh, fragrant limes, and and an air of well being.

* Read notes on kachampuli substitutes here.